Modern Adirondack Chairs

I wanted to make Adirondack chairs for our backyard. After searching for plans I chose a modern simple style by Ana White.

I copied and pasted her directions (minus the ads) and edited the plans with my notes. Pinterest link https://pin.it/4B7TSocPX

SHOPPING LIST

SEAT SLATS Lay your seat slats as shown above, starting with the first flat seat slat. Leave a 1/2″ gap between the slats. Screw down with 2″ screws and glue.

1 – 1×8, 8′ Long (Lowes didn’t have 8’ boards so I had to buy 12’. I asked them to cut it into 2 pieces at 32 3/4” and a 21” piece )
4 – 1×4, 8′ Long
1 – 2×2, 8′ Long
1 – 1×3 8′ Long ❌ (Lowes didn’t have 1×3 so I bought another 1×4)
1 1/4″ Exterior rated star bit screws
2″ Exterior rated star bit screws
Wood Glue

COMMON MATERIALS

Elmer’s Wood Filler

120 grit sandpaper

primer

wood conditioner

paint

paint brush

CUT LIST

2 – 1×8 @ 32 3/4″ (Stringers)
1 – 1×8 @ 21″ (Front)
5 – 1×4 @ 21″ (Seat Slats)
2 – 1×4 @ 20 3/4″ (Front Legs)
2 – 1×4 @ 24″ (Arm Supports)
5 – 1×4 @ 30 1/2″ (Back Slats)
1 – 1×4@ 19 1/2″ (Top Back Trim)
1 – 1×4 @ 19 1/2″ (Bottom Apron Back)
1 – 2×2 @ 22 1/2” (Center Back Support)
2 – 1×4 @ 25 1/2″ (Arm Rests)
2 – 1×3 @ 6″ (Decorative Front Arm Supports)

I cut all pieces for one chair at a time and laid them out in the same order as the list.

Step 1

CUT YOUR STRINGERS

Take your pair of 1×8 stringers and carefully mark out the cuts needed with a pencil on the board. This was the most difficult step.

I cut one at a time using a combination of my miter saw and jig saw. Next I clamped them together to make sure they matched up and made additional adjustments if needed.

STEP 2

FRONT APRON Attach your front apron with 2″ screws and glue as shown above. It will be flush at the top.

STEP 3

Attach your 5 seat boards leaving a 1/2 inch gap.

Step 4,5 and 6

FRONT LEGS Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue to attach the front legs as shown above.

STEP 5

Attach the arms with a 3/4” set back using glue and clamps to keep it level.

Step 6

Begin building the chair backs. I used a level to make sure the 5 pieces were straight. Glue one side of the bottom board and then screw in the left then right board.

The top brace is glued and screwed in 1 1/2 inches from the top. Again put glue on one side then screw the far left and far right boards. Evenly space the middle 3 and secure at the top and bottom.

The 2×2 board acts as as an adjustable piece to create the seat angle desired. It’s longer than the upper and lower braces. This one was the wrong size, removed and recut.

Step 6

Fitting the back is a bit tricky. You want the top of the lower brace even with the top of the stringer and flush with the seat. Use the 2×2 to recline the seat to your desired position and screw in with a 2” screw. I used the shorter screws to secure the seat back boards to the 2×2’s.

These directions felt vague as far as how to secure the arm rests and how to make the back was secured to the chair. Have someone hold the back in place for you while securing screws from the side and back.

STEP 8

ARMS SUPPORTS Attach your arms with 2″ screws and glue. Then attach the arm supports.

You should be done assembling! Sand then stain or seal your chair when you sprinkle water on it and it doesn’t bead up. Pressure treated wood needs to dry out before you apply paint or sealer.

This chair will fit a standard cushion, sized anywhere from 18×18 to 20×20. Can’t wait to see your photos!

We are currently using our solo stove in the middle but I’m building a larger fire ring this fall. Stay turned for that.

We look forward to making many memories in these chairs.

Cheers- Kristen